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Tuesday, December 02, 2008

surfing gustav

It seems like every other post I'm saying this, but sorry for the huge time delay in posting. Carl and I decided a few days ago that as soon as we get to Hawaii we will begin posting every single day, so please don't give up on us. We know it will be a great way for our friends and families to keep up with our lives since we'll be so far. More and more of my family members have started blogs recently, and it makes it so much easier to stay informed.
While most people would get as far away from the water as possible during a hurricane, Carl heads straight for it. Well, not straight for it, but straight to a beach that's far enough away to be safe yet close enough to get huge swells. In early September Gustav headed our way, and we packed up our dog and our boards and headed to Corpus. (Mom and Shelly- Carl is a seasoned surfer and is always very, very safe.) Carl does all the surfing while River and I sit on the pier and watch. Some day I too will be out there, but not until after I've graduated from Titus Kinimaka's Hawaiian School of Surfing some time next year.
When it gets really hot River likes to bury herself in the dirt under the truck. She's such a good beach dog. I think she's going to hate Hawaii (ha, ha).
At one point River and I had to take the truck and go to a gas station to get some water. Luckily when I came back I parked at the very edge of the beach because while we were out at the end of the pier a HUGE swell came and washed away the beach. All of the sudden I turned around and saw people running and driving off. This poor guy wasn't fortunate enough to have moved his car in time, and his whole front end was submersed. It was terrible. I felt so bad for him.
This is a photo of us after Carl's surfing session. I love it when he gets to surf. It always makes him so peaceful. When we move to Hawaii he'll get to surf his little heart out. Hopefully I turn out to be pretty good myself, and if I like it even half as much as he does I think I'll have the time of my life.




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